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Beaches and pools – life is beautiful in BCS

written by Birgit, pictures mostly by Sam

sunny 34 °C
View Around the world 2016/17 on dreiumdiewelt's travel map.

So we have made it to Baja California Sur. And as we arrived more north than originally planned, for the first and potentially only time on our journey we how had a stretch of road ahead of us that we’d take again on our way back. While this might sound like a bit of boredom, I got to like the idea a lot. It takes away a bit of pressure in the sense of ‘should we stay here longer – is this really the place to be or maybe there’s a nicer place just around the corner’. In case we’d like it somewhere and did not stay as long as the spot would have deserved, we will easily be able to come back to it on our way back. And we will easily be able to pick out nice spots on our way down and stay there later.
It did not take a lot of searching to find a nice first spot to stay: While Sam slept in the car and Max listened to a story with his headphones, I drove through Mulegé and towards the Bahía Conception. Heading down towards Playa Santispak, it just seemed too tempting to go there. And even Max liked it so much that he woke up Sam saying ‘look, such a nice beach!’.

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So we had a look and decided to stay for the day and the night. And to avoid the burning sunshine, we parked next to a ‘palapa’ hut which provided us with enough shade and protection from the light breeze. What a nice spot! And what a bargain – 150 pesos for the night including the palapa, i.e. roughly 8 US$... Life is beautiful in Mexico.

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We spent most of the day hanging out in the shadow of our palapa or in the shallow warm water. Lunch consisted of an enormous portion of fresh fish that we had bought in the morning from one of the rolling stores. In the evening we had a nice fire at the beach and enjoyed some roasted marshmallows with the family that stayed next to us.

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The next morning, we were just ready to have breakfast when Chicho stopped by to pick us up for the boat ride we had arranged with him. As we had not taken into account that the southern part of the Baja is again back on mountain time and not on pacific time, so Chicho had to wait a bit for us to be ready. As we headed out into the bay with his motorboat our first stop was for snorkeling. On the way to our next stop we saw large colonies of pelicans sitting on their already white rocks. We really liked the secluded beach on little Coyote Island. Being very shallow and extremely calm and clear water it was fun for all of us to swim there.

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I really enjoyed being at Playa Santispak. Just sitting there and looking at the water was all I needed. Somehow it felt that roughly eight weeks after the last working day, this is when I arrived on our trip. Life is beautiful. So we were clear that we wanted to stay for another night at this marvelous place.
This evening we were too lazy to cook ourselves and just went to the restaurant a bit further up the beach. Food was good, the view even better, the beers were cold and also the margarita did not disappoint us.
It was hard to go to sleep that night (well, not for Max) and once the raising moon had left the scene, we were treated to a great starry sky featuring the milky way and a couple of shooting stars. And by then temperatures had cooled off enough for a good night’s sleep.
Even though it was hard to leave that nice little spot we had found, we knew that on our way up we could easily stop by again. So it was relatively easy to leave the next morning headed towards Loreto, the former capital of Baja California.
Along the way we were treated to a couple of really nice vistas not only of beaches, cacti and mountains, but also of a Hummer AWD being stuck in a mangrove swamp and obviously not having a winch to get himself out again.

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After almost two hours of driving we arrived in Loreto, where we treated ourselves to lunch at one of the many little restaurants along the road. The fish and shrimp tacos they served were excellent and we continued ordering more and more.

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Loreto surprised us as being a really beautiful town that seems to be laid out for a lot more people and tourists than now in the low season. We had a look at the old mission church and wandered through the pedestrian zone to the sea.

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After having an enormous ice cream each, we eventually headed to our campground for the night, the Loreto Shores. Even though the view of the beach was a bit obstructed by houses, the pool was just great. All of us enjoyed to soak and cool off.

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Max eventually went to bed while Sam and I used the opportunity of having a good internet connection to get the blog and pictures up to date again.
The next morning, we easily took the decision to stay for another night. It was just way too comfortable and pleasant to head off already. So we just took it easy, spent most time either at or in the pool and enjoyed life. Only in the late afternoon we headed for a round into town and quickly found a nice place to eat. Max enjoyed Tacos de Pescado, Sam Camerones con Ajo and I tried the Pescado Empapelado. It was excellent!

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When paying we had a nice conversation with the older lady who had been tending our table, just like one of the many conversations we had with people we met. She commented on Max’ blond hair and his age and added that she had a grandson who was six years old. A bit later she added that he had a brother of 10 years and a sister of 12 years and that actually all three of them were living with her. Their mother had left them due to drug addiction issues and their father lived in the US and did not take care of the kids. So she was all on her own with the three kids trying to make enough money for all of them to get around… What a story and how sad to hear this. She had touched us quite unexpectedly and we realized once more how lucky we can call ourselves to be well situated. By coincidence we saw her in the street when leaving town the next day. We might not have noticed her, but she was waving so nicely at us that we recognized her and waved back to the tough lady.
The next morning, we took an easy start: breakfast at the pool was followed by soaking in the pool until we felt prepared to head off. Between running some errands, shopping and lunch it was almost 2pm when we left for La Paz. The road was initially winding through the mountains with lots of cactus on both sides, then we passed through agricultural land, desert-like dusty plains and eventually got into rolling cactus hills again before seeing the bay of La Paz lying in the early evening light ahead of us – really nice scenery.

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Posted by dreiumdiewelt 22:38 Archived in Mexico Tagged beach road pool loreto palapa motorboat santispak Comments (1)

Bye bye Mexico & welcome to Southern California

written by Birgit, pictures mostly by Sam

sunny 30 °C
View Around the world 2016/17 on dreiumdiewelt's travel map.

Eventually we reached San Felipe and found a nice place at KiKi’s RV Park which featured a palapa on two levels. This allowed us to move our bedroom on the upper level of the palapa for a change. This was excellent – specifically as it is so hot and humid here in San Felipe such that we were thankful for every little breeze.

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We spent the next morning on the beach, eventually went into town for lunch and then used the opportunity of being in a place with lots of dunes for doing some quad riding. That was so much fun!

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Max first rode with his dad, later with me. Sam used the opportunity when he was alone on the quad to go fast, jump and try steep inclines and the like, whereas Max and I took it easy. At least whenever I was the one at the throttle. When Max had control, he did go full blast – at least until I got scared and took his hand away from the gas.

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After that excitement we were all a bit exhausted. While Sam and I were in favour of taking an actual break, Max continued playing all along – in this case playing with his little surfboard in the sand until he was all sandy.
Luckily enough with the beach just a couple of steps away, it was easy to get rid of the sand and to even get treated as a bonus to a nice sunset.

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The next morning, another dip in the sea was due before finally leaving the Sea of Cortez and with that also Mexico.
We were surprised to see that on our way towards the border, there were enormous white areas along the beach. When we found a turn off towards it from our highway, we explored what it was and realized that it was a huge salt pan or probably rather a salt sea. The blinding light from the pure white was fascinating!

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We were much less impressed by the border between Mexico and the USA. We had to wait for about an hour on the road directly south of the gigantic border fence between the two countries. When it was eventually our turn, we realized that this was directly the US side, i.e. there was no outgoing customs or immigration point at all. The agent at the US border was extremely friendly, explaining to us how to get to Mexican customs to make sure our car is officially out of the country again. He also asked about the soccer game of this evening – and with that we realized that this was the day when Germany was playing Italy in the Euro 2016. We had not been following the news at all in the last couple of days.
After going back to the Mexican side of the border, lots of waiting and a couple of referrals from one office to another, we were finally able to make sure that the temporary import of our RV was officially stopped. Once more we stood in line for getting back into the US and got questioned about our trip by another agent. This time we knew how to answer the questions and got into the US without much ado.
As a welcome to the US, we were treated to a nice sunset – they are just much more interesting whenever there are clouds around vs. a clear sky. And luckily enough we were not in the middle of one of those thunderstorms going on around us!

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Our first night back in the USA was the Friday night of Fourth of July weekend. Given that all campgrounds and RV parks were probably full on that weekend, we used freecampsites.net once more and found a nice BLM site not too far from the Mexicali border at Plaster City OHV area. We did see a couple of buggy drivers, but none of them stayed overnight. So we had the pleasure of having a lonely campsite again with a nice starry sky. And there’s nothing to complain about the toilet facilities – they were significantly cleaner than many others we had on our journey so far and featured a nice view…
The drive over the Tecate divide into San Diego the next morning was really nice. We only briefly passed through downtown San Diego before heading directly to the USS Midway, a decommissioned aircraft carrier that is now a museum in the San Diego harbour.

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After our visit to the USS Midway, we prolonged our parking and headed south along the embarcadero to a pleasant food court where we had a late lunch before heading north along the coast towards Los Angeles.

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We had reserved a spot for the night at the Los Angeles KOA in advance – a smart move since the KOA was fully booked by the time we arrived in the evening. I can’t really say that it is a pleasant place to stay: it was a classical RV park with RVs standing next to each other tightly and even though it’s called the Los Angeles KOA, it’s located in Pomona, a suburb 30 miles / 50 km away from downtown LA. Given the holiday weekend, we were charged 66 USD for the night, so a new record by far surpassing the previous 45 USD max we had paid back in Oklahoma. Still, it served our needs for having a place for the night.
The next morning, we were not able to resist going shopping at Aldi’s before heading towards downtown Los Angeles. More or less by coincidence we ended up in the Central Market an enormous food court featuring food from all corners of the world. It reminded us a bit of Spittalfield Market in East London. We opted for Chinese food – a good choice!

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Our walking tour of downtown featured Pershing Square, the jewellery district and a couple of theaters along Broadway. We were surprised to see lots of nice old buildings and architecture. Even though we usually say that we’re no big city people, once in a while it is very nice to stroll around a city after all – specifically after having been for such a long time in the rather lonely deserts of Mexico’s Baja.

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Posted by dreiumdiewelt 00:13 Archived in USA Tagged mexico market hut la outside border downtown salt palapa Comments (1)

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